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Am back in Seattle, amazed at how cold it is here - and how much stuff we have at the house! I guess I've been succeptible to complexity and clutter in my comfortable life; this masks how tenuous life truly is...life's fragility is much more transparent in Sri Lanka. And it's crystal clear how lovely my little family is...and so sweet to reunite with Toby and the dogs on Tuesday. I miss the ocean but will get in some (cold) saltwater again very soon. I promise to go back and more trip stories and photos of my beautiful trip, hopefully this weekend. Jetlag haunts me every day, but it was all worth it. Thanks for following along with me.

Jerusalem Day

Greetings from Jerusalem, on Jerusalem Day. I had no idea I was arriving on the anniversary of Israel securing Jerusalem, but here I am. I'm not sure what time zone I'm in, but since my last post I've made it to Jordan, successfully rented a little stick-shift 4 cylinder Suzuki, and after a wrong turn found the Dead Sea. I had a quick float - felt like a cork bobbing around in the water, it was weird to get in a swimming pool right after and sink. Got back on the road only to miss the turn to the border. I pulled in at a service station and a guy my dad's age helped me get going in the right direction despite the fact that we shared no common language. He hopped in the car with me and pointed me through a very complex u-turn route, then said "hello" as he got out. It was awesome. I hope he understood how grateful I was. One of this trip's highlights is all of the handsome men ready and willing to help at any time! Ok, off to find some real hummous...

Next stop: Jordan

Am at the Colombo airport jonesing for a nap before my 3am flight to Amman. Later I'll go back and post more Sri Lanka tales (lounge singers, bats with a 2'-3' wingspan in the park, spices' dry heat that lingers a long long time). I've been scribbling many notes in my journal and someday I'll have a solid internet connection enabling photo uploads too. But first I need to go snag myself a row of seats for a snooze in the waiting area. Sri Lanka is a pretty tough act to follow but I'm willing to see what Jordan and Israel have to offer.

Big Life

Still so many things to post -- internet is a little spotty and I'm having trouble loading photos. Have seen a big mama green turtle laying eggs, I've buried eggs, seen the eggs hatch and helped the baby turtles get to the ocean. Cleaned tanks, fed turtles, swept the sand - all beside the great blue turquoise sea. Monkeys, dogs, birds (a pelican!) have made appearances. Wonderful people - beautiful people everywhere. Great spicy food and also the most delicate delicious bread. Only 3 more days in Sri Lanka and I'm already scheming to return.

Turtles hatching

Green turtle babies clambering out of their eggs and nests. Pretty damn cool. And bonus shot of a 1m long green turtle mama at the end of a few hours' worth of egg laying on the beach in the middle of the night. Got a call from one of the locals who trolls for turtle eggs (and then sells them to turtle projects for ~4r/egg) that she was laying eggs. Got a ride from Dudley on the back of his motorcycle and got there just in time to see the last few eggs. Labor lasted a few hours -- not sure if it's called labor for turtles, but from what I saw, it was definitely laborious. Mama did what she could to bury the eggs, not knowing they had been snatched out from under her. I hope that her babies have a better chance at a long life getting a start in a turtle hatchery instead of in an exposed beach nest. Afterwards, mama really seemed agitated by all the activity, so I asked to go back to the house.

It was a clear night - it's not too often I get to see a sky full of stars all the way down to the horizon.

Click here for a quick video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aQST8-izOAM

Happy Mother's Day

Since I am unable to access email today, you're all going to get a Happy Mother's Day from me since this blog is the only way I have to reach mine. So Happy Mother's Day to my hot mama! I look forward to celebrating with you when I return. Love, Jennifer

The Sky's the Limit

2 clutches delivered this morning, each over 100 eggs. We dug nests for the eggs, placed and buried them. They feel like mushy ping pong balls. Then we fed the turtles - I got to grab the 10 day old and 2 week old babies and escort them to their feeding tanks. Cute little buggers, 2" to 3" in diameter, and the older, the more wriggly. All the turtles feasted on tuna today; the other volunteers/staff handled the bigger turtles.

After morning tea (brilliant ritual, must incorporate this into my home routine), we swept the yard. Miisa, the other volunteer, showed me twice-diagonal sweeping technique. My husband and mother will sadly relate to Prysantha (Dudley's wife) who snatched the broom after my first few strokes. She said "first time?" out loud, and her face clearly said, "How have you made it to adulthood without knowing how to do this?" In my defense, I've never swept sand... And to top it all off, I have a blister from sweeping.

So apparently we're teaching English to local children in the afternoons. This was not part of any previous communiction, but I suppose I am here to help... I do have some command of the English language... I have an advanced degree in education... so saying no doesn't seem like a good option.

We have a "lesson plan" notebook where volunteers record teaching activities. There are many entries listing Hangman, and I must admit I fell back on that when my kids announced they wanted to play games.

M. who is Finnish took the younger, beginner group since she is not a native speaker. 5 boys straggled in to my group, ages 14-18. They were interested in my age and home country. I asked each of them what they want to be when they grow up - their responses ranged from passenger airline pilot to a businessman (hasn't yet identified what business, but I think he still has some time). The youngest shared his plan to be a lawyer, which cracked up he and his friends alike. He may have found his calling.

On the bus ride home, I saw the best ad slogan ever: Rhino Roofing Sheets - The Sky's the Limit. Indeed.

Early to bed...

So, backtracking a bit to cover the first day's experience in Sri Lanka: (edited 24 June 2012)
i to i's itinerary includes 1 night's stay at a hotel near Colombo to begin the transition to Sri Lankan life (translation: much sleeping).

I woke at what looked to be near-dawn, and not having a clock, thought I'd best get dressed and start the day. I wandered downstairs to find a startled hotel employee who asked if I was having trouble sleeping. Me, no trouble at all! By the way, could you tell me what time it is?

It was 5am. So, I sat on the lawn for a few minutes, enjoying the last bit of the "super" moon and then returned to my room for some tossing and turning until I was certain it was closer to breakfast's 7:30 start time.

The hotel staff found great humor in my early rising. Apparently I am the first volunteer to arrive ridiculously early to breakfast; most are late. As most might imagine, it was a first for me too.

Before leaving the hotel, we practiced some Sinalese on the beach. We interrupted the lesson to eavesdrop on an unfolding beach ritual. An Indian man surrounded by a small group of people gathered by the shore. The man was wearing only a white wrap and carrying a small bundle about the size of a loaf of bread. After some preparation and a few deep breaths, he got about knee-deep in the water, turned his back to the ocean, and threw the bundle over his head. He then knelt twice, forehead to sand. The water was rough and he stumbled a bit as waves crashed, nearly losing his wrap at one point.

As he rejoined his group, our Sri Lankan coordinators explained that this was a funeral ritual. It was so simple, so basic, so very human.

Another stark reminder - life is short. We're lucky to live while we can...I'm glad I'm now finally here in Sri Lanka.

First days at the volunteer project

Trip is fantastic. Having too much fun to bother with updating the blog, I'm afraid. Have buried turtle eggs, fed turtles and yesterday released 25 of them to the fates of the sea. Also teaching English to local children a few afternoons a week, and sacrificing my flesh to local bugs. Spending most free time goofing off with my roommate M.

More details to co me, I promise!

Updated entry on 24 June 2012 with photos and details:

Turtle eggs feel like mushy malleable ping pong balls - and I know that because I dug nests for and buried 75 green turtle eggs. They'll hang out in their arm-deep nest for 45-60 days and then will find their way out.

Also helped with feeding; there are several adolescent to adult turtles here for display, with 2 injured turtles here for some assisted living. More than 60 ridley turtle and green turtle babies are hanging out, getting fed and adored before being released to the sea in 1-4 weeks. They are 2"-3" in diameter, and would fit neatly in my palm if they weren't so wriggly.

28+ Hours later

After 2 long flights, a lovely stopover in London I am here in hot muggy Colombo. Everything going smoothly so far, although time will tell whether I regret not bringing a clock or watch. I also intend to only fly internationally from now on, where meals, adult beverages and hot towels are served at no extra charge in the lowly economy class. Did a few touristy things in L ondon; walked by the Eye, Big Ben and that area. I may have found the fabled spot in the middle of Regent's Park where the layers of foliage, combined with fountains and birdcalls nearly drown out the surrounding city noise. And had time for a pint too - a very successful outing. (Dog spotting results: Chihuahuas 2; Corgis 0)

Haven't seen much of Sri Lanka apart from the 1 hour drive from the airport. It reminds me of Addis Ababa with Hawaii tropics and fresher air. Driving is an adventure, involves lots of honking and even more guts. Kit from I to I met me at the airport and has made things quite easy so far. Tonight will be spent at a hotel on the beach just south of Colombo. There is only one other volunteer here, will meet up with more when we go to the turtles tomorrow. Everyone is quite nice; the stares that my pasty white skin draws are curious and friendly.

Will try to post photos soon, now it is time for sleep.

(Post updated 24 June 2012 with photos and formatting, and correction of travel time.)

Ready for launch

Getting ready for the next adventure featuring sea turtles in Sri Lanka, a mere 12 time zones away from Seattle. First stop is London for an afternoon, 2 weeks in Sri Lanka with turtles, heat and spicy food, then off to Amman, a float in the Dead Sea, and 2 days in Jerusalem before heading home. Just checked in to my first flight, leaving in less than 24 hours. I'm afraid the anticipation will prevent much sleep tonight!